Review
- Tswalu in the Northern Cape is the largest and most exclusive private game reserve in South Africa.
- Two luxurious camps accommodate just 28 guests, giving it the lowest density of any similar safari operation in South Africa.
- Once a game reserve, it is now home to diverse wildlife and various research and conservation initiatives.
- Korranaberg’s arid landscapes and towering mountains also make it particularly picturesque.
- And many people visit it only to eat at its spectacular Klein Jan restaurant, whose dinner is included in the stay.
- For more stories, go to www.BusinessInsider.co.za
Tswalu, in the southernmost section of the Kalahari desert, is the largest and most exclusive private game reserve in South Africa.
Although much of the emphasis at Tswalu is on luxury and opulence, owned and used frequently by the Oppenheimer family, it has also become a labor of conservation love.
Tswalu was once an overgrazed hunting concession in the middle of the North Cape. But when owner Stephen Boler died en route to the reservation in 1999, the Oppenheimers had the first option to purchase the land, which they did.
Key to his decision to purchase the land was his vision to return it to its original, pristine state, hence the name Tswalu, which means “new beginning” or “rebirth” in Setswana.
It is a process that has been complex and expensive. In 2021, they spend roughly R100 million on nature and surrounding communities, with much of the work taking place behind the scenes to pay guests.
Although conservation is the central focus for much of the Tswalu team, this is not the emphasis for paying guests unless they request it.
Instead, paying guests have almost exclusive access to the 114,000 hectares of land by virtue of a private guide, vehicle, and tracker.
Although the size of the land means teams work hard for sightings, Tswalu’s activities, hospitality and various luxuries make it one of South Africa’s most unique private lodge stays.
This is what you can expect from a stay at Tswalu Kalahari.
Most guests traveling to Tswalu do so by private jet operated by Oppenheimer’s Fireblade Aviation.
Tswalu Kalahari. Photo: Andrew Thompson.
The journey to the remote corner of the Kalahari takes two hours from Cape Town and 90 minutes from Johannesburg. The arrival is not a dusty and isolated airstrip either.
Tswalu has a 2,030 meter tarred airstrip and a large, open-sided, thatched arrivals boma, beautifully requisitioned by a flock of sociable weavers.
Tswalu Kalahari. Photo: Andrew Thompson.
Each group’s private guide and tracker is immediately available to take guests to their accommodation, a short drive that’s instantly scenic.
Tswalu Kalahari. Photo: Andrew Thompson.
The airstrip is a short scenic drive from the two main camps, Tarkuni and Motse.
Tarkuni is an exclusive use villa that must be fully booked by guests. It sleeps ten guests in five luxurious bedrooms under a single thatched roof.
Each room has a private terrace and en-suite bathrooms, but for socializing, there are multiple common areas such as a pool, wine cellar, library, game room, and lounge.
Image: Supplied.
A private team of chefs and butlers cater to the group, and guests can choose to dine indoors or under the stars in the outdoor boma.
Image: Supplied.
The Motse is a more typical safari camp that focuses on individuals and couples. It has a communal infinity pool, boma, and indoor and outdoor dining areas.
The lodge sleeps 18 guests in nine thatched-roof suites. The bedrooms feature four-poster beds positioned below maps of the property and large windows open to the views and elements of the outdoors.
Tswalu Kalahari. Photo: Andrew Thompson.
There are multiple seating areas, with most of the focus on an outdoor patio with high-back chairs, sofas, and a round table perfect for games or private dining.
Tswalu Kalahari. Photo: Andrew Thompson.
And thanks to a nearby watering hole, it’s possible to get the occasional view of passing wildlife from the comfort of your suite.
Tswalu Kalahari. Photo: Andrew Thompson.
Food at Tswalu gets special attention. All food and a wide selection of premium alcoholic beverages are included in your stay.
Tswalu Kalahari. Photo: Andrew Thompson.
And on at least one occasion, you’ll likely be invited to dine alfresco or on a scenic dune, likely to feature several courses under the stars, and Tswalu’s dream bar.
Tswalu Kalahari. Photo: Andrew Thompson.
Mornings and afternoons in Tswalu are mainly for game drives. The reserve is home to unique desert-dwelling creatures such as anteaters, porcupines, brown hyenas, and pangolins, though it’s no surprise that these are elusive.
The guides are likely to offer you several possibilities, including the sighting of rare black-maned Kalahari lions.
Tswalu Kalahari. Photo: Andrew Thompson.
The lions are in a separate section of the reserve. Although they do not exist in large herds like in other parts of Africa, sightings of males and females are common, including mating pairs.
Tswalu Kalahari. Photo: Andrew Thompson.
The reserve has also reintroduced the cheetah.
Tswalu Kalahari. Photo: Andrew Thompson.
And several elusive rhinos, both black and white, that will make you work hard for often brief but exciting sightings.
Tswalu Kalahari. Photo: Andrew Thompson.
There are also plenty of general game uncommon in South Africa’s more familiar parks, such as roan and sable antelope and gemsbok.
Tswalu Kalahari. Photo: Andrew Thompson.
But the wildlife highlight for most visitors is Tswalu’s habituated meerkats.
Tswalu Kalahari. Photo: Andrew Thompson.
However, much of the beauty of Tswalu lies in the scenic attractions. Like gathering storm clouds behind the Korranaberg mountains.
Tswalu Kalahari. Photo: Andrew Thompson.
And the long roads of ocher sand that cross the dunes, which after the good seasonal rains are usually the only reminder that you are in a true desert.
Tswalu Kalahari. Photo: Andrew Thompson.
Since there are no lions in the middle of the reserve, it is also possible to safely participate in various activities such as guided walks, nights alone under the stars or horseback riding for all levels.
Tswalu Kalahari. Photo: Andrew Thompson.
But for many, a visit to Klein Jan, located on the Tswalu estate, is a key reason to visit.
Tswalu Kalahari. Photo: Andrew Thompson.
The restaurant offers a culinary journey from the bend from a 100-year-old farmhouse, to a secret underground cellar and dining room.
Tswalu Kalahari. Photo: Andrew Thompson.
Michelin-starred South African chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen has curated a menu that relies on hyper-local ingredients, many of which are found on the Tswalu estate.
Tswalu Kalahari. Photo: Andrew Thompson.
The Klein Jan experience typically falls on the last night of a trip to Tswalu, and it’s the perfect parallel universe in which to reflect on a trip to this remote corner of the Kalahari.
In general, if wildlife viewing is your primary goal, you’ll likely work hard in Tswalu given its size and low vehicle density. And for that, it pays to slow down and appreciate other aspects of the experience. For international travelers, it is also a hostel that blends well with those in other reserves such as the Kruger National Park or Sabi Sands.
But Tswalu is a destination best slowly celebrated for its scenic beauty, unique species, world-class food and hospitality, and some of South Africa’s most impressive conservation and management targets.
Tswalu Kalahari. Photo: Andrew Thompson.
Despite the high cost of a stay in Tswalu, it has an extremely high occupancy rate. It is possible to check availability and book online directly on the Tswalu website. The reservation also offers discounts for stays of four nights or more.
Andrew Thompson was a guest of Tswalu.
